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From the highest peak of Ben Hiant where dwarf alpine plants such
as alpine forget-me-not (Myosotis alpestris) and mountain azalea (Loiseleuria
promcumbens) shelter from a late snowfall to the mild Gulf Stream
warmed shores at its foot; Ardnamurchan's rich and varied flora and
fauna are the nature lover's delight.
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In spring yellow clusters of primroses (Primula vulgaris) share the
same shaded banks as Majestic Red Deer, some of the finest stags in
Scotland, true Monarchs of the Glen. On the lower valley floor, an
otter playfully swims down a stream, unaware of the binoculars trained
on his playground.
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At this time of year growth is sparse and cover less dense and
creatures that are normally shy and reclusive become less wary.
Seals bask on rocky outcrops where only Thrift (Armeria martima)
and sea-holly (Eryngium maritimum) and other plants tolerant to
the salt spray survive.
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Back from the shore is a different world. Soon, as summers heat
wakens sleeping roots, fields of flag iris (Iris pseudacorus) will
spring into life and bloom, few to equal that on the banks of the
Fascadale Burn.
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Further up this same burn where its steep sided Glen rings with the
music from crystal clear waterfalls wood sorrel (Oxalis ecetosella)
, wood anemone (Anemone nemorosa) and lesser celendine (Ranunculus
ficaria) are to be found among lichen bedecked mountain oaks (Fagaceae
Quercus petraea), birch (Betula pendula) and aspen (Populus tremula).
This is also the time of year to visit the secluded splendour of Lochan
nan Gruagaich.
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Hidden amongst the conifers deer, roe, red and fallow can be seen
drinking and grazing round the edge of a flower bedecked lochan the
likes of which no formal water garden could hope to emulate. Water
lilies (Nymphaea alba) in profusion open to meet the sun with arrowhead
(Sagattaria sagittifolia) and bogbean (Menyanthes trifoliata) amongst
more common water plants such as bulrush and sedge
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Out on the Lochan truly wild brown trout rise to gossamer winged
damsels flies. Dragon flies dart around the verges chasing their prey.
As evening descends the verges of this and many of the other Ardnamurchan
lochs change their tune from the singing of birds to the buzzing of
insects and croaking of frogs.
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Reptiles are in abundance frogs, toads, newts are all to be found
as are slow worms, agile lizards and the elusive adder which although
venomous would rather retreat quietly than attack.
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Upstream from na Gruagaich the much larger Lochan Mhadaich Riabaich
is also a frequent haunt of otters and if one is quick, the sight
of the agile pine marten is not uncommon.
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If one is lucky or cares to seek, cast antlers from red deer can
be found among the grass. These antlers are used by many other animals
as a source of calcium and if not found for some time, may show the
tooth marks of voles or other small animals.
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As summer wears on and the heather breaks into purple hue. Amongst
the large expanses of the ordinary ling heather (Calluna vulgaris)
one may find tufts of bell heather (Erica cinerea) growing on the
dried spots and among rocks. Lower down bog myrtle (Myrica gale) and
cross leaved heaths (Erica tetralix) are also present.
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The salmon head upstream from the sea and can often be seen leaping
falls on the Achateny Water or cruising beneath the bridge at Branault.
From the shoreline porpoises in Loch Sunart are frequently viewed.
Bottle nosed dolphins and minke whales are other late summer visitors.
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Down at Port Ban or on the broad sweep of Sanna Bay the machair is
in full bloom. Here the soil is enriched by centuries of storms depositing
shells upon the shore to form a raised beach.
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Once again the music of the mountains changes for August welcomes
'the rut'. Stags roaring echoing through the hills, challenging all
comers for the right to take the hinds. The clashing of antlers grown
to replace those that have been cast in the spring are now clear of
velvet and clatter like percussion instruments signalling autumn's
approach. The ancient woodland changes its green mantle to golds,
reds and browns as though to challenge the heather's purple hue.
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The first frosts hail winter, the leaves drift earthward, leaving
Ardnamurchan's trees still bedecked in fragile lichen, each looking
like a unique crystal chandelier. Lichens are a sign of the pure air,
for lichens will not thrive where pollution is found. Ben Hiant once
again has a summit of white but even yet one may stroll along the
shoreline where the Gulf Stream waters flow. The deer again descend
to the lower ground and the mountains tune becomes one of slumber
awaiting once again the coming of spring. Ardnamurchan's wilderness
for all seasons words cannot describe.
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© Ardnamurchan Estate 1999, all rights reserved
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